Surfing

SURFING

Once upon a couple of years ago me and my family went to the beach for summer vacation I was 15 at the time, and we stayed in a little wood cabin, there were pictures of famous surfers all over the beige colored wall, along with baby blue curtains, and wood flooring, a bunk bed was hidden in the corner room, along with a little kitchen, and table to eat at. We had the perfect view of the beach from our window. I saw a guy that looked about 16 or 17 showing someone how to surf.


The day after we arrived, I saw signs about the surfing lessons, and a picture of the guy I had seen the day before, it said his name was John Peterson. I asked my parents about it, and they agreed that it would be a wonderful pass time to learn how to surf. I met the instructor John out on the beach with my parents. He had golden brown hair, big brown eyes that went perfect with the ocean blue waters and a great smile. He said he would love to show me how to surf, and that we could start the next day, I was so excited.


I ran out onto the beach, wearing my blue swirly bathing suit, wondering what the day would hold. Everything started out fine, but once I stepped into the water, I began to get a little nervous, but I wasn’t about to let a little thing like that stop me from enjoying my vacation! I took one step in front of another walking out further into the waters, my yellow surf board floating in the water next to me; John came over to get things started. He told me to climb onto my board, and that I was going to paddle around for a little while, to get use to how it feels. I did so, and got tired out after the first fifteen minutes of waving my hands through the water. He showed me a couple other techniques about the board, and we stopped for the day. It was a short first day, and the sunset was the most beautiful lest I’d ever seen

Walking on the beach, feeling the soft wind on my face, John ran up to me, he was wearing a blue surfing suit, with his golden brown hair. He asked If I wanted to go practice surfing with him, not practice for him, but for me. I looked into his eyes, as he talked… But didn’t hear a word… I walked into the water John behind me, I jumped onto my board and splashed him with some cold water. He in turn got me back, anyways we really did practice… eventually, and I had lots of fun that day.


Today, John was going to show me how to position myself on the surf board, and the right hand motions and moves. He set the board down on the sand, and told me to get on it. I jumped on it, and was completely dumb founded that you really had to have a lot of experience surfing… I found that he’d been surfing for 10 years since he was 7. He was a really good instructor, explaining all my questions, and after one week of hard work, falling, and tripping, trying to balance, with one success on a small wave, It was time to try to hit the big wave, I ran out into the waters, and jumped on my board, paddling to get farther out in the waters. John was also in the waters, watching me, and hoping that I would be able to “brave the waves.” I crawled up onto my feet, and couldn’t believe that I was balanced on the board, a big wave was coming, and I wasn’t sure if I was going to make it. John was still there sitting on his blue spotted surfboard, waiting in suspence… The cool splashing water on my face felt refreshing.